Day 8 – Sea creatures of Amity Point

Mum, my aunt and I spent most of they day relaxing in the sun enjoying the quiet bayside atmosphere. We spotted some koalas and kangaroos, and listened to the birds making their various songs. It was good to just chill at camp for a day: I even got some work done.

But the real excitement of the day was our afternoon walk to check out the soldier crabs marching across the tidal sandbar. There were thousands of them stretched out in platoons as far as the eye could see.

As they felt our footsteps moving towards them, they scurried away with their funny little crab runs before burrowing into the sand for safety leaving nothing but lots of little balls of sand behind on the surface. I always want to pick the balls up like grey jewels but, of course, they just break up in my hands.

The soldier crabs come in all sizes. This is a particularly large and handsome example. He is a bit upset because Mum and I stopped him from his escape so I could take this photo. He was momentarily stunned when we stopped him so I grabbed a quick shot before leaving him to his own devices.

The dolphins came to visit at the jetty just five minutes after Mum and my aunt left to return to the mainland. There were three of them playing in the shallow water waiting for the fisherman to drop a catch. No one did but the dolphins still just hung out watching us watching them. I can honestly say that watching the dolphins is a hundred times more enjoyable than watching television.

I don’t know whethe you can see it in this photo but there was also a wobbegong shark swimming around under the jetty. These gentle creatures have the misfortune of being in the same species as the scary large-toothed Jaws. But they are not an aggressive shark, preferring to just swim around eating whatever they eat from the bottom of the sea.

Days 5-7: More Minjerribah musings

I think I am one of the luckiest men alive. I wake before the sun, do a few hours work, cook and eat breakfast with a fantastic view over the bay, do a bit more work out in the sunshine before I enjoy a few hours exploring more of what Minjerribah has to offer.

I’ve taken up fishing; a hobby I never thought I’d have the patience to enjoy. But just this small period of change has made such a huge impact on my life. I find my heart isn’t racing and my mind isn’t demanding I rush. Instead, I found myself standing in the water for a few hours throwing my line in without success but with total joy.

I did manage to catch one small fish. It was back swimming in the sea again after I took a photo to prove that I actually can catch the odd fish. I think it’s the first fish I’ve caught since childhood so I am pretty proud of myself. Now I just need to catch something of legal size so I can cook it on the barbie. I do like the 1980s blue eye shadow this fish is wearing though.

Mum and my aunt from Portugal came over to the island last night. They are staying for a couple of days. It’s super cool to have visitors to my new home (my home being anywhere I pitch my tent, not necessarily the island itself). We hung out chatting and eating way too much last night. My aunt loves to take photos of birds, which is fantastic because there are many here.

Today we caught a bus out to Point Lookout where we enjoyed a short walk to check out the headland. The water is so clear that we could see the sandy bottom. We spotted some turtles and even maybe some wales (I think they were wales slapping their tales but can’t confirm). It was absolutely magnificent to chill out taking in the views, walking on the beach and just generally hanging out.

Not only was I engrossed by the sea but I also enjoyed the shapes of the pandanus palms that grew in abundance. I like the contrast between their round trunks, tubular air-roots and sharp pointy leaves. It’s almost like they have royal crowns.

All in all, I would say that I am feeling as happy as this flower looks.

Day 4 – Settling into island life

I enjoyed a quiet island morning fishing off the Amity Point jetty (no, I didn’t catch anything). I’m not a fisherman by any stretch of the imagination, having never had much patience for the waiting game. Perhaps it is my new lifestyle but I found it quite pleasant jigging for squid this morning. Sure, I didn’t catch anything but there was something lovely about listening to the water lapping at the jetty’s posts and casting the line out into the sea.

After a breakfast of leftovers I set off on my bicycle to catch the ferry back to the mainland. My aunt from Portugal arrived yesterday to visit my mum so our family had a lunch organised at the pub. I gave myself plenty of time to enjoy my 16km (10 mile) pedal down the island and to take in the various landscapes I passed through. There are grassy swamps boasting paperbarks, dry ridges where stumpy gum trees grow, and slopes that are covered with banksias and grass trees. The diversity of flora is stunning.

The “Reddy” Bay pub was packed with families enjoying the warm autumn sunshine, live music and good food. We joined the throng and ate seafood meals.

I think it’s almost impossible not to be taken in by the views over the bay here either. From our table we could see the white triangles of yachts under sail, the slow blue barges transporting cars to and from the Southern Moreton Bay Islands and tinnies in which small groups of mates were probably fishing.

I thoroughly enjoyed catching up with my family and seeing my aunt for the first time in years. But the experience of returning to the mainland so soon after I have arrived on the island is quite jarring so I was happy to get back on the ferry to return. Tomorrow I need to head across again for a work function (I organised an in-house National Reconciliation Week lunch for our office so really should head back for that) but then I hope to stay here on the island for the rest of the week.

I arrived back at Amity Point after cycling about 60km (40 miles) for the day just as the sun was about to set. A few small groups of people had set up to picnic in the park to enjoy nature’s show. I bought an ice cream then lay on the grass to experience the magic.

As is usual here in the sub-tropics, within 15 minute the sun was gone and darkness started to fall. Families fished off the jetty, their quiet conversation and laughter humming across the water as small waves broke and fisherman towed their boats out of the water at the boat ramp. The swimming enclosure was empty as stars started to appear and night set in.

Day 3 – Packrafting south of Amity Point

The blue sky reflects brilliantly off the clear bay water that flows over pristine white sands. I can’t help but wonder whether I have drifted into a holiday commercial or whether I am really here paddling my packraft in this place. A small pod of bottle-nosed dolphins plays nearby. One is quite white compared with these mammals’ usual dull grey colour. They twist and turn, their flippers leaving the water almost as though they are waving. It’s a captivating sight. As I continue southwards, large turtles dart away from me, often passing under my boat. These are not the mere pet store turtles that might fit in the palm of you hand. No, they are massive big creatures that would probably flip my raft if they came up beneath me. A few stingray flash through the water too; their flat bodies like underwater stealth bombers moving so quickly they are gone as soon as you see them.

I paddle with the incoming tide as far south as a large sandbar that is exposed by the tide. There’s something exciting about sitting on a sandbar watching the world go by. A few yachts are anchored on the other side of this tidal island but it is so large I can barely make out the people sitting under their beach umbrella. All I can hear is the sound of the small waves padding against the sand and the digging of the soldier crabs beneath me. Every so often a crab’s small head and pincers appear from in the sand, leaving the characteristic round balls of sand that betray the small purple soldier crabs’ presence.

The tide is coming in quickly now. It proves impossible for me to paddle directly into it because my boat is a raft not a kayak. I start to walk through the shallows, dragging my floating boat along next to me. It’s one of my favourite things to walk in clear ankle-deep water so I am a little pleased that the tide is too strong. On foot I notice different things, like the large bright orange starfish that dot the shallows and the tiny fish that make this place their home. On two occasions I have to cross deeper water at the entrance to some creeks but it proves quite simple as the tide is flowing into the creek and the raft handles the cross-current well. I am glad because swimming is not a very sensible option in this place, which is known for being popular with sharks.

After exploring for a few hours I return to camp to find a koala sitting in a tree near my tent. It’s the perfect way to end my little excursion before I return to completing a university assignment that is due this week.

Note: There is no blog post for day 2 because I went over to the mainland to do some chores and visit a friend.

Day 1 – Minjerribah (Stradbroke Island)

It took me a long time to pack my gear. Not because I didn’t want to leave but because I have no idea what one packs for a long-term cycling trip. I mean, how many t-shirts of pairs of trousers will I actually need? And will I regret not taking my hydro pack? And how does one make the panniers evenly balanced so the bike doesn’t handle like a drunken tractor? All these questions and still I have very few answers. No doubt this is the normal state of affairs for people who do the “sold the house and off to explore the world by bicycle” thing.

And so it was that I wobbled off down the road on a heavy, unevenly loaded touring bike with brand new panniers, a packraft and only one drink bottle (totally insufficient even for a day ride). My first stop: the Stradbroke Island barge some 30km (19 miles) from my parents’ place. Once there I met some lovely Dutch ladies who are visiting family in Australia. They too were waiting to walk onto the barge and I enjoyed a yarn with them. They complimented me on my Dutch as we parted ways: them to sit in the upstairs passenger lounge and me to stand with my bike.

The 45 minute barge trip to the island was relaxing. I stood on the deck enjoying the water views while reading a book, Maalika by Valarie Browning, that my friends gave me last weekend. Between the captivating book and the gentle bobbing of the barge, I arrived at the island relaxed and ready.

It being 1pm I treated myself to a vegetable curry from the Island Fruit Barn (I definitely recommend it), which I ate down at One Mile Jetty. It was rather pleasant sitting next to the calm water in the middle of the day with a threatening sky. This is exactly the kind of experience I am out here to enjoy.

From lunch it was still 18km (11 miles) to Amity Point. The road rolled over and around a few low hills passing stubby gums and banksias. I wonder whether my body will ever get used to cycling a loaded bike. Cognitively I know it will but a small part of me is still a tiny bit scared about whether I have what it takes to be a cycle tourist. Not scared enough to give up or become anxious; just a mild sense of “wow, this is really something different”.

The camp at Amity Point is lovely. I have a shaded site with a soft sandy ground. It seems to be a quiet place to call home for most of the next five weeks and I found the ranger to be friendly. I watched dolphins swim along the coast as I ate ice cream in a nearby park. I still always get excited when I see these majestic mammals of the sea.

Back at camp a Swiss couple stopped to say hello. They have been cycling the world for 2 years and are heading back home next week. They asked about where I had ridden and I told them it is my first day. It seems auspicious to meet cycle tourists who are coming to the end of their journey on the same day I start mine. I can’t explain it but it just feels that way. And then they showed me the local koalas. If seeing dolphins is exciting then seeing koalas can only be described as awesome! It’s an auspicious start to my travels.

Last day in the office

Today is the day: my final day in the office. It’s only 11am but I have already packed my remaining personal possessions into a little pile to take home and have organised for my alter-ego to be ensconced happily at my desk (though I have moved his so I can write this post and do a little work this afternoon). It is such a surreal feeling. I have been reading nomads’ books and blogs for a long time but never actually imagined that I’d be joining them. Actually, had someone told me on 1 February that I would be a nomad by the end of May I would have laughed in their faces.

I will miss my colleagues. They are a great bunch of people. We will keep in touch by telephone, email and Skype as I am continuing to work part-time for the same company I work for now. But I will miss the way people smile when someone brings in cake to share, “share lunches” where our company buys us pizzas or fried chicken or fish & chips, whipping up crepes with Nutella for everyone at morning tea, and the Monday morning conversations about our weekends. After today I will quickly become “the guy who used to sit in that office”. This is a normal part of life – I’ve left offices many times before. But there’s always been another office to go to … not this time.

I keep pinching myself because I really can’t believe this is actually happening – I am going on an adventure and it starts tomorrow!

A cute mascot for my trip

Mascot on my motorbike

I have a little mascot for my trip. Something to take pictures of in scenic or crazy settings. Something with a link to people who support me. Something to help me focus when the going gets tough. Something to remind me to Squeeze, Stretch, Trigger and Move my muscles every day; particularly when they are sore or tight. Something that’s just a little bit cute and unique.

My mascot is a trigger ball / bouncy ball with a penguin in it. My physio and friend, Paul from Body Leadership Australia gave it to me last night when I went in for a pre-trip massage. I like things like this: cute childish toys that make me smile. Paul has always supported my crazy schemes. He was the first to encourage me when I decided to attempt my first ultra marathon, when I decided to  run the City to Surf Marathon in Perth and when I set off to hike The Great North Walk. But it was his unwavering support and advice when I completed my month of cycling 100km every day that meant the most to me because he never doubted my ability to achieve what I believed to be impossible. Paul’s listened to my crazy dreams and was there in December 2012 when injury sent me into a deep and desperate depression. And never once has he stopped making me laugh or let me dwell on self-pity. Instead, he patches me up, gives me great advice about how to look after my body, and sends me off to my next adventure full of confidence and self-belief. And this next adventure is no different. I know so much more about my body and it’s limits (I push them less these days), I know that Paul is just a phone call away if something does go wrong, and I know where to get a good physio massage when I am back in Brisbane.

But mostly, I can’t wait to take pics of my little penguin ball as I travel the world. It will be really quite cool to know that someone will get a laugh out of seeing it exploring the world with me.

Good friends and good food

It’s not often that I chose to stay in a city when there’s countryside available. But this weekend I packed a bag and checked myself into the YHA Brisbane City. Yes, that’s right, I stayed at a backpackers in my home town; a rather random thing to do. It just made sense and turned out to be the best idea because my weekend turned out just brilliantly.

After a night at the footy (Rugby League) with my Dad, sister, niece and nephew (our team won) I woke on Saturday morning to bright blue skies and a feeling of freshness about me. With no commitments until 1pm, I casually made my way to the West End Markets to find something for breakfast. I love a good market: the food, the buskers and the produce. I ended up with a mandarin, an apple, a banana, a spring roll, a ciabatta pocket and a bottle of home-made lemonade. Good fresh food with a touch of naughtiness in the spring roll.

The mandarin, apple and spring roll were devoured as I meandered my way through the crowd but then I heard this busker’s song and decided to take a break. With soft grass as my blanket I sat back and found myself tapping my feet as I munched on my bread. Others had come armed with picnic blankets and camping chairs to enjoy the morning. A coffee van did a roaring trade nearby. The busker continued to sing his tunes and play his instruments. This is what I traded in my old life for: moments of pure joy like this.

One of my pre-departure priorities is to catch up with friends. I am blessed to have some of the most amazing friends a man could want. I don’t have many and we don’t see each other often. But that doesn’t diminish the care and affection I have for my friends. K & G run a support oragnisation for transgender men and women. They were there when I started my transition and have always been a source or inspiration and support. Over the years, we have become friends and I absolutely adore them both. We shared an afternoon of laughter and stories.

On Sunday I set off to visit another of my close friends. M and I met when she was my boss about a decade ago. We share a love of good food and poor M knows more about me than anyone ought. She is an amazing cook and treated me to the most divine lamb salad with feta, olives and figs fried with garlic. I was glad I didn’t skimp on the dessert because anything less than the Samford Patissier’s wares would have done the salad a gross injustice. Before we knew it, it was 8pm and we’d been talking for about 9 hours. I know I will miss M and my lunches.

After another comfortable night at the YHA, I woke this morning to my third last day in the office. So I treated myself to a delicious breakfast of eggs with chilies, baby spinach and mushrooms served with a side of sun dried tomato and basil focaccia that I toasted in a fry pan. I felt totally relaxed as I ate outdoors overlooking the Brisbane River. This is what I love most: good food, good company and good scenery.

The Alpaca’s maiden voyage

I draw quite a bit of attention as I stand under the street light inflating my new Alpacka Alpaca packraft. A middle-aged man with spreading girth and shaved head comes to observe. He is annoying and I try my best to politely get rid of him. But still he comments about how I’ll be there all day inflating the boat using Alpacka’s bag system and how I should buy myself some product that he swears by. It makes me determined to prove him wrong and, in no time, the boat is inflated and I am walking towards the water’s edge. My conclusion: the Alpacka bag inflation system is simple, effective and super lightweight.

I am absolutely delighted as I hear my packraft make that distinctive “plop” that is a boat hitting the water. An awesome world of adventure has just opened up and I am excited about the possibilities this brings. I paddle out into Moreton Bay, learning how the boat moves. It takes a few paddle strokes to adjust to the differences between a raft and a kayak but before long I am gliding across the water enjoying the tranquility. It’s almost surreal to be sitting out here watching the sun come up over Coochiemudlo Island.

I drift between the fishing boats and yachts moored in the sheltered waters of this little bay. The yachts bob silently on the dead tide. There’s not even any wind so the usual “tip tip tap” of the mast stays is absent. A small school of fish leap from the water, their silver scales shimmering in the sunlight. It’s a heavenly start to my day.

Proposed route in Australia

Proposed route in Australia

The first stage of my world cycling adventure (note it’s not an “around the world cycling adventure”) will take me from Adelaide to Sydney. I live in Brisbane but have a good friend in Adelaide who I want to see before I leave so I decided to fly there to start my adventure. I also have a good friend in Nowra, south of Sydney, and I want to see her before I leave. So it makes sense to cycle from one friend’s place to the other’s. Here’s my rough route:

1. From Adelaide cycle around to the Eyre Peninsula to see the Gawler Ranges NP and eat my way around the Seafood Trail.
2. Take a ferry across to the Yorke Peninsula and cycle down to catch another ferry to Kangaroo Island
3. Cycle the Coorong (and maybe re-read the classic Australian novel Storm Boy while I’m down there)
4. Cycle up to the Grampians to do some bushwalking
5. Visit friends in the tiny Outback towns of Yanac and Rainbow
6. Follow the Mighty Murray River from Swan Hill to the source, which will see me pedaling dusty roads and paddling brown waters
7. Explore the Snowy Mountains on bike and foot
8. Stop for a few days in the Blue Mountains for more bushwalking exploration
9. Visit my friend in Nowra then catch a train to Sydney airport to fly to New Zealand.

I expect this to take me about 5-6 months of slow travel.